How To Sow & Grow Courgettes, Marrows, Gourds, Pumpkins & Squashes

Courgettes, Gourds, Marrows, Pumpkins and Squashes are all very closely related and so for the purposes of sowing and growing can be treated in very much the same way. Essentially, the only two differences within this group of plants is growth habit and time of usage of the fruits.

Generally speaking, Courgettes, Marrows and Summer Squashes grow in a fairly compact bush form and produce fruits that are used immediately whilst Gourds, Pumpkins and Winter Squashes tend to trail (so can ramble and scramble over quite an area) and produce fruits that can be stored as well as being used immediately.

There are, of course, exceptions to this generalisation; in particular the Summer Squash variety ‘Rolet’ not only has a trailing habit but also produces fruits that store very well (even if their skins do become as hard as a cricket ball!).

Whilst the young fruits of Gourds can be eaten, they are usually grown for ornamental purposes or for drying. Gourds are not poisonous; it is simply the case that the flesh of a mature Gourd is sharp and bitter to the taste, and so unpalatable.

Sowing

• Sow under protection in pots late April-late May.
• Place seeds on end, blunted end pointing downwards in compost - simply push into compost until out of sight. Water thoroughly and germinate at a temperature of 75°F (24°C).
• Protect newly sown seeds from mice. Mice are notorious for 'sniffing out' seed of this nature.
• When seed leaves are developed grow on at a reduced temperature of around 65°-70°F (18°-21°C).

Planting Out

Courgettes, Gourds, Marrows, Pumpkins and Squashes can be grown under protection or outside. For more northern gardeners and in cooler summers growing under protection will greatly improve the chances of good yields.

All are gross feeders so if growing in container or growbags make sure the compost is fresh, rich and fertile. Many people grow their plants on rotting straw bales successfully.

If growing in the ground ensure it is fertile and moisture-retentive, but well-drained. Forking in well-rotted manure or similar will help greatly – and if the ground is particularly heavy, consider creating 'mole hill' style mounds and planting into these.

If you are lucky enough to have a compost heap or a manure heap you can grow your plants directly on this (something many of our annual School Pumpkin Competition participants have got wise to!)

• Plant out mid-May (heated greenhouse) or late May (unheated greenhouse), or later (after the risk of frosts has passed) if growing outside.
• For Courgettes, Marrows and non-trailing Squashes, plant two per growbag or straw bale, or one per medium-sized pot. For growing in the open ground or border allow 3 feet (90 cm) between plants.
• For Gourds, Pumpkins and trailing Squashes plant one per growbag or straw bale or one per large-sized pot. For growing in the open ground or border allow 3 feet (90 cm) or more between plants – but accept that they will trail, ramble and tangle (or for smaller fruiting varieties consider growing them up a trellis or arch as an interesting feature).

Growing On

With early outdoor plantings and in ‘cold years’ protecting the plants with cloches or similar will greatly help the plants to establish. Similarly, if cold overnight temperatures are forecast protecting with fleece or similar will prove highly beneficial.

Ensure the plants are kept moist at all times, but preferably not soggy wet. Keep the soil/compost moist - watering around the plants, not the foliage.

Helping With Pollination

Pollination is not usually a problem – but if the weather is cold so pollinating insects are not so active you can fertilise the female flowers (they have a tiny 'fruit' behind them) with a male flower by folding back the petals and gently pushing it into the female flower.

Harvesting

Courgettes, Marrows and Summer Squashes
Harvest and use through the summer months as they become ready. Simply slice through the stem joining the fruit to the plant with a sharp knife – never try to pull the fruit off.

In all cases, the trick is to keep up by cutting the fruits at a sensible size rather than letting them grow away and getting huge as this will slow and reduce fruiting; far better to cut excess fruits when they are young and tender (even if you end up giving them away) than to end up with large, tough and woolly fruits and no younger fruits coming along.

Gourds, Pumpkins and Winter Squashes
These are best left to mature into the autumn before you cut en masse for storage and later usage; the only exception to this would be if the plants get severely affected with mildew (a little is fine) in which case you are better to harvest before the mildew is taken down into the fruits.

Because of the longer time the fruits lie on the ground it is a wise idea to carefully lift the developing fruits in late August and lay them on straw or similar to keep them clean and reduce slug damage – this may be a two- or three-person job if the fruits are large! At the end of September cut back all foliage from the plants, leaving the fruits exposed to the sun which will aid ripening and start the curing process of the skins.

To harvest, simply cut from the vine of the plant, leaving a generous ‘handle’ on the fruit. If harvest day is dry and sunny leave the fruits in the sun for the day to allow the cut stem to dry up. If you are harvesting on a wet day, and especially if the autumn has been wet and grotty, stand the cut fruits in a warm, dry, airy spot such as a greenhouse or conservatory for a few days to allow the stem to dry and to allow the skins to harden and fully cure.

The cut fruits can then be stored in cool (but frost-free) dry conditions - preferably on slatted shelving or similar (and not touching each other) so that there is good air flow around the fruits. Fruits stored in such a way can remain firm and useable well into February of the following year – but do check from time to time for spoilage.