How To Grow Exotic Fruits

Container Growing

All the exotics we list are suitable for growing in patio tubs or containers. If you are planting in a container choose one of a good size for the subject you are growing. In a small container, a plant loaded with foliage and fruit can easily become top heavy in high winds. The ideal container for a patio is either one made of plastic or concrete, or a wooden half-barrel or tub. If planting in a tub good drainage is essential. Holes should be made in the base, and possibly also in the sides of the container at the base. Avoid standing the container where it will become waterlogged. Ideally, the container should be stood on a couple of house bricks or on gravel to assist drainage.

If your garden soil is not too heavy, this will be fine for filling the container and planting into; alternatively, we would suggest using John Innes compost No.2 or No.3 (although Citrus trees tend to be acid-lovers so will need an ericaceous soil or compost).

We also recommend putting a little brick mortar rubble in the bottom of the container to cover the drainage holes and to stop the soil falling through.

Planting Out

Despite being described as 'exotic' many of our subjects are in fact UK-winter hardy and so suitable for planting outside in the open ground – please check the more specific notes below. As with many things in life, remember that a little extra care and time taken with planting out will pay dividends for many years to come!

Dig a hole approximately double the width and double the depth of the size of the container the plant was grown in. Now fork over the sides and bottom of the hole to loosen up the surrounding soil before refilling to bring the soil level up to the correct planting depth for your plant; you can either refill with the soil you originally dug out or, ideally, with a mixture of this soil and 25% organic matter such as well-rotted manure (not fresh) or compost, to give your plant the best start.

Position the plant in the hole, ensuring its final planting depth is the same or only slightly deeper than it was previously grown at (indicated by the soil or compost mark on the stem). Now refill, either with the previously removed garden soil or your soil/compost mixture. Firm in well and water if the soil is dry. Under no circumstances should you use any stimulants, fertiliser or bonemeal at planting time as these products will 'burn' any new root growth and may actually slow your plant’s development!

Aftercare

In the first growing season after planting it is vital to ensure the plant is adequately watered - and this is even more critical in extended dry periods or drought. When watering any newly planted stock 'a bucket a week' is favourable to 'a teacup a day', and will encourage a good, deep root system.

Keep the area around the base of your plant free of weeds and grass which would otherwise compete for moisture and nutrients.

To further aid moisture retention it is a good idea to mulch round your plant with chipped bark, well-rotted manure or similar; this will also help with suppressing weed growth.

During the active growing season an occasional feed with our 'Instant Life' or a light top dressing with a base fertiliser will prove beneficial. Under no circumstances be tempted to overfeed!

Pruning and Training

Many many books have been written on fruit pruning and training – a subject we cannot discuss in detail on this simple guidance sheet; for advice on training and pruning we would recommend Grow Fruit by Alan Buckingham (DK Publishing).

Some Additional Notes on Specific Varieties...

Avocado

The Avocado needs to be grown in a pot on a sunny patio during the summer months and taken into a greenhouse or conservatory in the winter, to protect it from cold, damp and frosts. Unfortunately (like some of us!) these plants don't like to get cold. In a container, the Avocado reaches a height of 5-7 feet (1.5-2 metres). Water when the surface of the soil is dry to the touch. It can take up to 10 years for the first fruit to appear; however, plants usually start to fruit when they are about four years old. Fruit usually appears 12-18 months after the flowers bloom. Leave the fruits on the tree until the skin turns purple. Fruit will continue to grow larger on the tree but it won't ripen until picked.

Carob Tree

A long-lived evergreen with dense foliage, the Carob tree can reach up to 49 feet (15 metres) in height but will be happy grown in a container and kept to around 6-8 feet (1.8-2.4 metres). If grown outdoors it will need frost protection. It is also fairly salt-tolerant. The Carob prefers full sun and likes a well-drained sandy/loamy soil. It can survive long periods of drought but needs water in order to fruit. Having said that, waterlogging should be avoided. The Carob flowers in the autumn and it can take between 5 and 16 years before the tree begins to produce fruit.

Caviar Citrus Tree

The Caviar Citrus, also known as the Finger Lime or Caviar Lime reaches 3-5 ft (1-1.5 m) high, and can be grown in a greenhouse or on a patio. It will require winter frost protection or else should be moved indoors in winter.It likes sun or partial shade, and flowers/fruits between July and October.

Chocolate Vine

Vigorous climbers that grow best in a deep, fertile soil. Water them in the growing season and provide some support. Prune after flowering, if they outgrow their allotted space or become woody. Fruit will form after a good long summer. Best results will be achieved by growing plants on a south-facing wall. They do not seem to be affected by pests or diseases.

Citrus (Blood Orange, Grapefruit, Kumquat, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Orange, Yuzu)

These can be kept outside from June to mid-September but must come in for the winter. No special pruning is required. Trim off straggly shoots. Good winter light is essential but difficult to obtain in the UK so inevitably some leaves will turn yellow and fall. In fact, in low temperatures all the leaves can drop but they will regrow with warm spring sunshine so don’t worry. Once a month break up a couple of spent tea bags and stir into the compost; Citrus trees like a soil that tends to the acidic - rotted oak leaves will have the same effect. About once a month, from November to March, add 1 level teaspoonful of Epsom Salts to each Citrus and water in - this will improve leaf colour and general well-being. Spray with a fine mist of water in spring to assist pollination. If scale insects appear on the undersides of the leaves spray with our BioFriend Plant-Defence. Some gardeners recommend dabbing scale insects with a paint brush dipped in neat methylated spirits or rubbing alcohol, although these substances are not approved as pesticides.

Goji Berries

Goji Berries require a rich, well-draining soil but will also perform well on lighter sandy soils. However, they will not tolerate heavy, wet soil. Goji Berries are hardy to all extremes of climate and are drought-tolerant. They prefer full sun or partial shade. Plant out in May/June at the earliest, when the night-time temperatures are warmer. If planting more than one, place a minimum of 6-8 feet (1.8-2.4 metres) apart. Once established they are wind- and salt-tolerant, and frost-hardy to at least -15C (5F). Pruning is best undertaken in the early spring just as the plant breaks into growth. Pruning should be kept to a minimum in order to maximise fruit yield, though Goji Berries will recover well from hard pruning. After their first full growing year, container-grown plants can be left out all year round - that said, as with anything container-grown, winter protection will improve spring growth and, ultimately, yield.

Loquat

This can be grown outside in a south-west position. After about four years, they will produce olive-sized fruits, not unlike a peach in flavour. Loquats usually flower in autumn and fruit in the spring, so it may be necessary to protect the blossom from the frost during the winter months. Loquats are frost-hardy in our experience but can also be grown in a cold greenhouse or conservatory. Loquats will thrive in free-draining fertile soil. No special pruning is required and Loquats are in fact best left to grow to their full size, of around 12 ft.

Mango Tree

Given the correct growing conditions the Mango is a very vigorous grower with an upright habit and compact canopy, and can reach in excess of 30 feet (9 metres)! In the UK it is grown in a pot and should be kept pruned to a manageable size. Place on a sunny patio in the summer and move to a conservatory in the winter. Protect from frost and cold/draughts in winter. Mango Kent needs warm, damp conditions so mist it regularly with rainwater. It also needs plenty of sunshine in order to flower, although it may take some years to establish itself. Fruit matures between July and September. Water well once fruit sets. Mango Kent produces large oval fruits, greenish-yellow with a red blush and an excellent rich, sweet flavour and little fibre. Wrinkling of the skin means the fruit is ripe.

Olive Tree

These should always be grown in containers of well-drained ordinary garden soil. They will need winter frost protection in a greenhouse or conservatory. Olives are of course native to the Mediterranean climate so a baking hot summer suits them well. True olives can be produced in the UK given warm sunny growing conditions. No special pruning required - simply trim to shape about once a year. Keep semi-dry in winter.

Passion Fruit

Grow this as an attractive climber over an arbour or similar. A few tendrils can be trained to grow into a greenhouse for early fruit; unless you have a large glasshouse avoid growing completely under glass as the plant would swamp it! Though hardy Passion Fruits may be killed off to ground level in a severe winter but they will regrow from the roots.

Pineapple Guava

Also known as the Fruit Salad tree, these originate from Brazil yet can be grown outside in the UK in ordinary soil. Outside, fruit is only produced after a very hot summer but is easily produced in a greenhouse. No special pruning or care is required. The very attractive white and scarlet flowers are edible and can be crystallised for cake decoration.

Pomegranates and Dwarf Pomegranate

Considered by many to be frost-tender these will actually take occasional mild frosts. Grow in large containers and move in for the winter months or grow in a warm sheltered spot in the garden.

Tamarillo

A perennial in habit, this can grow to around 12 feet (3.65 metres) tall with a spread up to 8 feet (2.4 metres), but with pruning can be kept to a height of around 6 feet (1.8 metres). Grow it in a large tub; it can be grown outdoors in the summer but remember, move inside before the onset of snow and frost! Use either John Innes No.2 or a similar peat-based compost, and ensure it is well drained to avoid waterlogging. It is quite natural for the lower leaves to yellow and drop off as the Tamarillo grows to maturity. Feed moderately with a product such as our 'Instant Life'. On no account use bonemeal, fresh manure or any other additive as these will encourage 'soft' growth. Cropping usually begins in late summer/early autumn from a spring planting and can reach a peak in winter/early spring. Should your Tamarillo grow too big in too short a space of time, it can be headed back with a saw. This sounds very drastic but recovery is quite staggering. with many fresh shoots breaking from the stem. Ideally, keep about three shoots anad remove the rest.