How To Plant Soft Fruit

Important - I'm Not Dead or Dying!

Stock bought in late summer will often have tatty or discoloured leaves while that bought in autumn will often have leaves still hanging on, only for them to fall off later. This is nothing to worry about as all deciduous plants tend to look a little the worse for wear in late summer, and naturally shed their leaves in autumn.

Unpacking/Pre-Planting Care

When your fruit bush arrives, if it is a bare root plant, unpack the roots from their polythene and mulch packing; if they are dry stand in a bucket of water for no more than half an hour.

If the fruit bush is pot-grown simply remove the covering polythene bag and ensure the compost is moist.

Prior to dispatch, all field-grown (bare root) plants are root-pruned to encourage fibrous root growth so there should be no need for you to prune them further.

What If I Can't Plant Fruit Bushes Immediately?

Ideally, your fruit bush should be planted out as soon as possible. If this is not possible – i.e. if the ground is frozen or too wet to dig – ‘heel’ the plant into a shallow trench or else wrap the roots up in the bark chip and polythene they were originally packed in and store in a cool, frost-free place. Do not keep in a warm place as this will encourage premature growth. Every few days check that the roots are still moist, and plant out as soon as is practicable.

Container Growing  

All our stock is suitable for growing in patio tubs or containers as well as for planting outside in open ground. Container growing will prove particularly beneficial for lime-hating plants such as Bilberry, Blueberry, Cranberry and Mountain Cranberry that need an ericaceous soil or compost.

If you are planting in a patio tub or container try to use one at least 18" (45 cm) in diameter for larger subjects such as Currants, Gooseberries or Blueberries, or 8" (20 cm) in diameter for smaller subjects like Bilberry or Mountain Cranberry. A fruit bush loaded with foliage and fruit, in a small container, can easily become top heavy in high winds. The ideal container for a patio is either one made of plastic or concrete, or a wooden tub or half-barrel.

If your garden soil is not too heavy, this will be fine for filling the container and planting into; alternatively, we would suggest using John Innes compost No.2 or No.3. Lime-hating plants will, of course, need an ericaceous soil or compost!

We also recommend putting a little brick mortar rubble or coarse gravel in the bottom of the container, to cover the drainage holes and to stop the soil falling through.

Planting Out

As with many things in life, remember that a little extra care and time taken with planting your soft fruit will pay dividends for many years to come!

Dig a hole approximately double the width and double the depth of the size of the plant’s roots, root ball, or the container it was grown in. Now fork over the sides and bottom of the hole to loosen up the surrounding soil before refilling to bring the soil level up to the correct planting depth for your plant; you can refill with either the soil you originally dug out or, ideally, with a mixture of that soil and 25% organic matter such as well-rotted manure (not fresh), leaf mould or compost, to give your plant the best start.

Position the plant in the hole, ensuring its final planting depth is the same or only slightly deeper than it was previously grown at (indicated by the soil or compost mark on the stem). Now refill, either with the previously removed garden soil or your soil/compost mixture. Firm in and water well – even if the soil appears wet.

Under no circumstances should you use any stimulants, fertiliser or bonemeal at planting time as these products will ‘burn’ any new root growth and actually slow your plant’s development!

Aftercare

In the first growing season after planting it is vital to ensure your plant is adequately watered – and this is even more critical in extended dry periods or drought. When watering any newly planted stock 'a bucket a week' is preferable to 'a teacup a day' and will encourage a good, deep root system.

Always keep the area around the base of your plant free from weeds and grass which would otherwise compete for moisture and nutrients.

To further aid moisture retention it is a good idea to mulch round your newly planted stock with chipped bark, well-rotted manure or similar; this will also help with suppressing weed growth.

Pruning and Training

Many, many books have been written on soft fruit pruning and training – a subject we cannot discuss in detail in these guidance notes; for advice on training and pruning we would recommend Grow Fruit by Alan Buckingham (DK Publishing).

Some Additional Notes On Specific Varieties...

Blackberries and Hybrid Berries

Blackberries are tolerant of most soils so long as they are free-draining but hybrid berries require a deep rich soil with plenty of compost and humus incorporated. Plant approximately 8 feet apart. They need strong supports and a wire system like raspberries, or can be grown against a fence or wall of a house, again using strong galvanized horizontal wires for support. Prune once a year after harvesting fruit, to clear out old canes that are no longer productive.

Bilberry, Blueberry, Cranberry and Mountain Cranberry

Plant 3-4 feet apart. Very little care and attention is needed. They require an acid soil, which can be encouraged by digging in peat, rotted oak leaves or your spent tea bags and coffee grounds. Chose an open, sunny situation. Simply trim to shape after fruit has been harvested.

Currants, Jostaberries and Fourberries

Plant 5 feet apart. Plants can be allowed to grow for 2-3 years with minimal pruning. After this thin out shoots to prevent overcrowding and allow good air-flow to prevent fungal problems.

Gooseberries

Gooseberries are fairly tolerant and don't mind a slightly alkaline soil, but prefer slight acid soil with a pH of 6-6.5. They dislike being waterlogged and grow better in well-drained soil to which well-rotted manure or compost has been added. Plant about 4 feet apart. Hard pruning annually each autumn will produce strong fruiting wood as well as encouraging an open structure to the bush, letting in air and light.

Honeyberry

The Honeyberry is perfectly happy in normal soil and grows into a shrubby bush around 3-6 ft (1-2 m) tall, with similar spread. It needs little attention in the first few years. In later years prune shortly after harvesting the fruit, removing all dead, damaged or weak growth and thinning out a third of the remaining shoots to encourage fresh basal growth. Honeyberries are not fully self fertile so growing several will improve fruit setting. Tip pruning in spring will encourage more flowers and thus more fruit.

Japanese Wineberry

In our experience these are best planted against a fence or sunny wall. Plant about 5ft apart and provide canes or wires for vertical support. Simply prune or trim to shape as required after all fruit has been picked.

Kiwi Fruit

Kiwi Fruits prefer a position in full sun – the more you can give them the better. They like a good rich soil, with plenty of well-rotted compost They will grow in alkali soils but prefer a 'just' acid soil (pH 5-6.5). A moist soil is essential, but Kiwi Fruits do not like to be waterlogged so avoid heavy or poorly drained soils. Water well after planting then leave for two weeks before checking whether the plant needs more. Growth can be rapid even in the first year so ensure you are well prepared, with suitable supports such as trellis or horizontal wires at 12" (30 cm) spacings. If planting more than one Kiwi Fruit, allow a spacing of 16-20 ft (6.1 m) between plants.

Kiwi Fruits can grow to about 12 ft (3.65 m) (28 ft [9 m] in the case of Jenny) but can be controlled through pruning. Pinch out growing tips in summer. Prune in February, removing one or two of the oldest canes and training in younger canes. Dress with well-rotted compost and organic fertiliser in April. Plants are hardy through most winters and even if 'knocked back' (even to the ground) will grow away well the following spring.